There are moments in life that divide everything into before and after. Meeting a silverback gorilla in the wild is one of them. I have guided hundreds of treks through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and every single time, the moment we find the gorillas, I feel the same rush. It never gets old.
The Trek
We set off from the Buhoma trailhead at 8 AM. The air was cool and damp, the forest wrapped in low-hanging clouds. Our group of eight visitors followed the ranger through a narrow trail, climbing steadily through dense vegetation. After about two hours of hiking, the tracker radioed in: the Mubare family had been located.
The last 200 meters were the hardest. Pushing through thick undergrowth, stepping over roots, ducking under branches. But when we emerged into a small clearing, everything was forgotten.
The Encounter
He was sitting barely six meters away. A fully grown silverback, easily 200 kilos, with a broad silver patch running down his back. He was calmly peeling bamboo shoots, occasionally glancing at us with an expression that was neither threatening nor welcoming — just supremely unbothered.
“When a silverback looks at you, you understand that you are the visitor in his home. Not the other way around.”
For the next hour, we watched the family. Young gorillas played in the branches above us. A mother nursed her baby, turning away from us with gentle protectiveness. The silverback continued eating, occasionally letting out a deep, rumbling belch — the gorilla equivalent of saying 'everything is fine.'
What It Feels Like
People ask me what it feels like. The honest answer is: overwhelming. There is something deeply humbling about being in the presence of an animal that shares 98% of your DNA, that has family structures and emotions and social bonds — and that exists in a forest that has stood for 25,000 years. You feel very small, and very lucky.
Most visitors cry. Not from sadness, but from the sheer intensity of the experience. I have seen tough, seasoned travelers wipe tears from their eyes in silence. It is that powerful.
About Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in southwestern Uganda. It protects one of the oldest rainforests in Africa and is home to roughly half of the world's remaining mountain gorillas — about 459 individuals in 50 habituated and unhabituated groups.
- Located in southwestern Uganda, near the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo
- Covers 321 square kilometers of dense tropical rainforest
- Home to 11 habituated gorilla families available for trekking
- Gorilla trekking permits cost $800 per person, limited to 8 visitors per family per day
- The forest is also home to chimpanzees, forest elephants, and over 350 bird species
Travel Tips
Travel Tip
Book your gorilla permit at least 3 months in advance, especially for peak season (June-September, December-February). We handle the entire booking process for you.
Wear sturdy hiking boots with ankle support — the terrain is steep and often muddy. Bring a rain jacket regardless of season. And most importantly: leave your expectations at the trailhead. The forest decides how the trek unfolds, and that is part of the magic.
Social Impact
Every gorilla permit directly funds conservation efforts and supports communities around Bwindi. When you trek, you are helping protect these animals for future generations.